Broadsheet

“It’s a Shaky Time”:

What 17 Sydney Restaurateurs Really Think About the End of Lockdown

19th October 2021

Story Nick Connellan

Photography Kitti Gould

How are Sydney’s restaurants faring after our longest lockdown? Have they survived the pandemic? A Broadsheet survey with industry leaders, including Kylie Kwong, Josh Niland, Peter Gilmore, Dan Hong and Maurice Terzini, reveals the truths behind the reopening buoyancy.

Nineteen months ago Broadsheet surveyed 360 restaurant, cafe, pub and bar owners around Australia as the first wave of coronavirus crashed over us. While there was plenty anxiety in the ranks, it’s hard to imagine anyone truly understood what an ordeal was still to come. 

A few days later we zoomed in, to Sydney, where angry, despairing restaurateurs including Brent Savage (Yellow, Cirrus, Bentley, Monopole) and Maurice Terzini (Icebergs, Cicciabella) watched their trade drop off a cliff and accused the government of hanging them out to dry.

And in December, before anyone had ever heard the phrase “Delta variant” and it looked like Australia had maybe tamed Covid, we surveyed another 30 influential restaurateurs to ask, Can the Australian Hospitality Industry Bounce Back in 2021?.

Now, with Sydney finally out of its longest lockdown to date, the vaccine rollout hitting critical targets and 19 gruelling months of hindsight, it seems right to check the industry’s pulse for what we sincerely hope will be the last time.

We asked 17 leading restaurateurs seven open-ended questions about the health of their business and the industry, and what’s kept them going up until now. We present their answers here, lightly edited for length, clarity, spelling and grammar. In some cases where several similar answers were supplied, we selected the most insightful and concise only.

Are we out of the Covid woods yet? Why or why not?

Definitely not, and probably won’t be for a while. We have seen how quickly and vast the virus spreads, despite all modern preventions to date.
– Kenny Son, co-owner, Sáng

Not really. We're still trading under the four-square-metre rule, which means we’re at half capacity for the next couple of months. There are restrictions to standing and dancing, and mask-wearing is still compulsory. We’re also yet to fully assess the damage Covid has done to the business.
– Ade Adeniyi, owner, Little Lagos

I don’t think so, no. The effects are not immediate, it’s not just a case of reopening as if it never happened. Some people have already closed for good, which is heartbreaking, and realistically I think it will be a struggle for many in the next year. I don't think everyone will just bounce back like it never happened, it’s been financially brutal, even replacing a crucial staff member or getting up to normal staffing levels takes its toll – there is still an effect. Believing it will snap back to what it was before is a false economy. While we’re cracking bubbles at our venues that we can open to guests once more, there’s still a small part of us that feels slightly threatened that we could have that taken away again.
– Josh Niland, co-owner, Saint Peter, Fish Butchery, Charcoal Fish

Not entirely. The restrictions that are still in place will continue to affect the restaurant in terms of business and normality. There may also be residual apprehension for customers about coming into small venues and being all squashy like we love. And it does take time to get the momentum back and build up to pre-lockdown life. There is also a tiny fear that lockdown could happen again.
– O Tama Carey, owner, Lankan Filling Station

No, I think it is something we will be living with for a while still. There is the medical side of it obviously, but for the hospitality industry it has been a bulldozer that will take some time to rebuild [from].
– José Alkon, owner, Pepito’s

No, and I don’t think we will be anytime soon. Covid drastically changed the ways people live and the world functions. As much as we’re starting to get back some form of freedom, it’s just the beginning of us all learning how to live with this virus and it’s gonna take a long time.
– Dorothy Lee, co-owner, Hartsyard

I don’t think we'll be out of the woods until we hit higher vaccination rates and rapid antigen testing becomes more readily available.
– Joy Ng, owner, the Bearded Tit

No. There will be a residual effect for quite some time. Nothing like this ever comes to an instant stop, as we've seen from previous outbreaks and lockdowns.
Aykut Sayan, owner, Circa Espresso.

No. Living with Covid in the current climate will result in further cautions and staged freedoms.
– Ibby Moubadder, co-owner, Nour, Henrietta, Cuckoo Callay, Lilymu, Aalia

Not yet. There are a lot of businesses that are on the canvas at the moment and it will take some time to regain some of the momentum we've lost. With continuing restrictions, a lot of businesses will be scraping by and waiting for the dust to settle.
– Alex Dowd, co-owner, Tio’s, the Cliff Dive, Cantina Ok!

We’re almost there. The only factor holding us back now is time. Time for us to hit 90 per cent or higher vax rate. Time for consumer confidence to come back. Time for international borders to reopen and get back our international students and tourists. Time to get our workforce back into the industry. The next few months will be very challenging with the uncertainty of another snap lockdown if case numbers spike, or the labour shortage we’re all currently experiencing or the rules of policing vaxxed patients, et cetera. We just have a few more months of hardship.
– Junda Khoo, owner, Ho Jiak

This is the most promising we’ve looked for some time in that we may not have to go back into lockdown, but it certainly isn't a guarantee.
– Peter Gilmore, executive chef, Quay and Bennelong

It’s open waters. I’m not sure about the health aspect, as this is determined by the gods above our government, but in terms of Covid impact, not enough time is dedicated to the discussion of Covid debt and not only the hospitality industry, but in particular music, which has suffered enormously in Oz.
– Maurice Terzini, co-owner, Icebergs, Cicciabella, Re–

Sydney reopened yesterday [October 11] and it felt amazing, so I’m going to say yes! It was such an electric vibe seeing our guests sitting down and enjoying themselves inside our venues. There was definitely a more positive energy in the air, as opposed the last reopening (2020).
– Dan Hong, executive chef, Mr Wong, Ms G’s and the Establishment

How are you feeling about the health of your business – mental, financial, and so on?

Happy/sad/fucked/nervous/optimistic/hopeful/anxious/all of the above at every moment of every day.
– Anton Forte, co-owner, Shady Pines Saloon, the Baxter Inn, Frankie’s Pizza, Restaurant Hubert, Alberto’s Lounge, Phillip’s Foote

I think we’ve accepted that the business is going to just survive instead of thrive for the next few months.
– Joy Ng

I’m nervous and anxious that we have to deliver overnight what has been taken away from us, with no questions asked. I feel a sense of unfairness. I’ve witnessed financial growth in so many other industries, I’ve seen so many take a holiday. I’m not sure if the scares of Covid on hospitality will disappear overnight.
– Maurice Terzini

Very anxious and stressed. I’m hopeful but deep down there is a fear of, “What if?” We’ve seen reports of other countries trying to open up with high vaccination rates, only to go back into lockdown. Still, the very high vaccination rate in NSW is giving me some confidence. The business is not in a good shape, we’ve lost a lot of money and incurred big debts. We’ve lost some staff as well, as people have moved away from the hospitality industry. So it’s a pretty tough place to be right now.
– Ade Adeniyi

It’s the beginning of the turn. We’ve already suffered for almost 18 months and to still be here standing it, will turn for those who managed to survive the pandemic. I’m bullish. 
– Junda Khoo

We’re feeling good. Our priority is the health and well-being of our teams; the rest tends to look after itself. Feeling a sense of purpose and agency is critical to self-esteem and opening back up as soon as possible was critical for us so we could get our people that feeling again. Our philosophy is that this is the horse that pulls our financial cart.
– Alex Dowd

Today I’m feeling good. Financially we have made it this far which feels like a survival of sorts. The start of spring, being able to open again and having a restaurant that looks like a restaurant (all take away packaging has been hidden away) are all excellent things. I think it's made us all hopeful and excited again which has put us in a much better place mentally.
– O Tama Carey

Pepito’s was from the start a project driven by passion. I believe we’ve been successful due to our guests feeling our genuine energy. The physical and personal toll of running at this pace for 15 months during a pandemic is honestly exhausting. Thankfully our batteries are charged by our customers and we can’t wait to fuel up!
– José Alkon

I feel hopeful about the general health of the business. After Covid, people seem to not take small things (e.g. hanging out with people, going for a walk, et cetera) for granted and that creates great demand and positive vibes for the hospitality industry in particular. I do think we as an industry will face more challenges mentally, as it will take a lot of psychological resilience for all of us to bounce back and face the unknown future.
– Dorothy Lee

We’ve been fortunate and created a new product early on, Mr Niland at Home. It’s helped us survive and importantly, it’s kept everyone busy and focused, including other friends in the industry where possible. Where you’re at in your head is the important thing, and it impacted all of us in both a good and bad way. Yes, it’s been a strain on everyone – we have had almost two years that we never planned for or expected, given these negative circumstances, [but] it has also allowed us some time to review.
– Josh Niland

Financially, it doesn't quite compare to how it was. But overall, we’re still feeling more positive than negative. We have been so strongly supported by many friends and customers throughout the lockdown and we have worked very hard to come out of this feeling stronger than before.
– Kenny Son

Very positive. Our staff are super excited to get back and serve our guests. I have no concerns that Sydney people want to get back and support their favourite restaurants again. We were packed!
– Dan Hong

What about the health of the hospitality industry as a whole?

As an industry it has made us stronger, more resilient, more creative and more connected with each other than ever before.
– Lennox Hastie, owner, Firedoor

I can’t speak for what it was like before but it seems this pandemic has pulled the weak block out of a Jenga tower. From the outside it seems for years the industry has been avoiding certain conversations, and now it’s had to face them.
– José Alkon

Those in the industry who survived the pandemic and are still standing and are able to reopen now will definitely be better off than 18 months ago. Fingers crossed.
Junda Khoo

Each location and offering has its own unique problems, but I think this period has highlighted a huge need for change, for industry respect and representation at a federal level. Our hospitality industry is very much the core of our society, from country pubs to CBD restaurants. We’re professionals in what we do but we offer a place of connection and community and it needs support as a whole.
– Josh Niland

This has certainly been absolutely the hardest thing our industry has had to face for as long as I can remember. We are a pretty resilient lot but I do feel there have been some casualties along the way. One thing the lockdowns have confirmed is that people love going out; they’ve missed the hospitality industry, and this gives me hope for the future. 
Peter Gilmore

It’s a shaky time for sure. When the going gets tough, it does provide a lot of scope for innovation. Look at the takeaway drinks – for some businesses this will be a huge part of their model moving forward. However, when budgets are tight, it can deter people from taking risks – playing it safe can often guarantee revenue. Now more than ever, people are going to be looking for the joy that only a once-in-a-lifetime experience can provide and we feel that will stand the industry in good stead.
Alex Dowd

It seems the problems we face are not unique: staff shortages, downturn in revenue, government financial support coming to an end soon, et cetera. I think all of these issues are greatly affecting the industry and while I believe it will bounce back, it might take a while.
– Ade Adeniyi

I have great faith that it will spring back, revive and be better than ever. There are new places opening, more places spilling out onto the street and hopefully more freedoms and ease in terms of rules and regulations. One of the scary things though will be having enough staff to sustain the industry.
– O Tama Carey

Hospitality as a whole has been negatively impacted, without a doubt. A large part of Sang is made up of my dad and mum. They’re in their 60s and speak English as a second language. Without trying to sound smug, I cannot think how they would have survived this without me and my partner.
– Kenny Son

Restaurants cannot simply just offer an experience, a meal anymore. They need to come up with other ways to boost income to overcome the losses from the last two years. Lack of staff is another huge problem, from talking to some of my hospo friends. How are we going to deliver delicious food and wine and wonderful service if there’s a shortage of staff? So my view about the health of the industry is that it's gonna be HARD and ongoing.
– Dorothy Lee

I think the industry has been decimated. We've lost great venues and the ones still standing are trying to hold on despite continuing capacity restrictions.
– Joy Ng

As we witnessed with last year’s reopening, hospitality came back with a bang. I have no doubt the industry will make up for the lost time in the coming months.
– Ibby Moubadder

Thinking beyond lockdowns, has the pandemic permanently changed the way your business operates? How?

Not really. People have been selling food, drinks, service and atmosphere for centuries. the fundamental product remains the same.
–Anton Forte

The only permanent thing that might remain is our supermarket frozen-food range but as we reopen, the demand for that and takeaway will drop, which means us going back to the way we operated pre-pandemic.
Junda Khoo

Yes, 100 per cent. We have learned over the last two years, in particular, to be agile and adapt. We have learned that revenue truly does not mean profit. We have learned that our health really matters, [which is] now at the forefront of our business values.
– Maurice Terzini

Definitely! This pandemic has made us all realise that we’re in a fragile business – no people, no industry, no good. It’s also reminded us a lot of the simple things in life – a picnic in the park, a barbeque at home, a drink on your front stoop. We're trying to think more holistically about how we can continue to provide experiences that spring out of our venues and into peoples lives.
– Alex Dowd

It hasn’t changed it, but it has forced us to accelerate our long-term plans and bring things forward. We always planned to go into merchandising but this was in the future, however we’re now rolling this out before the end of the year. We want to diversify quickly and ensure other sources of revenue.
– Ade Adeniyi

Not so much changed, but it has added different elements. We’re much better at takeaway, we have a good retail section now and we have added on delivered meal packs that we will continue to work into the business as much as we can. This is the biggest change for us and it will be interesting to see if it’s something that still has an interest for people post-lockdown. The actual running of the restaurant, though, will stay as it has been, as that’s what I created and that's what I love.
– O Tama Carey

We were born in the pandemic so subsequently it's the only “normal” we know. Reservations was something we didn't plan on, but now it is standard practice that would be difficult to adjust without.
– José Alkon

Absolutely. I never thought of Hartsyard as a restaurant that could offer takeaway and we did it throughout the two lockdowns! It really opened up the possibility of “remote dining experience”. Same as the virtual wine dinner we did. It made me realise there’re so many new ways to interact and reach customers even though they are not in the restaurant.
– Dorothy Lee

Yes. Business for us has changed for good to be more versatile. We put the same amount of work, creative process, respect et cetera into “at home” as we do in service – it was the only way to keep our heads straight. The opening of Charcoal Fish is also a direct response to closure, as that model can continue to operate when Saint Peter is in lockdown.
– Josh Niland

For a couple of our venues, we've come to the realisation that the business is better suited to a takeaway/delivery model.
– Ibby Moubadder

 Lots of red tape was cut during the pandemic, making liquor license conditions more lenient and permitting more al fresco dining. Should these changes be made permanent? Is there more to be done?

Yes and yes, there is far too much red tape and not enough freedoms in this industry to be interesting, creative and spontaneous.
– O Tama Carey

Yes, make the changes permanent. Outdoor dining rips. Takeaway booze from restaurants is ace. Al fresco – Madonna!
–Anton Forte

Absolutely. Sydney's got one a great climate and 75 per cent of the year it isn’t raining - we should be outside! Activate rooftops, deregulate outdoor dining, keep takeaway cocktails. We’ve got a once-in-a-generation opportunity to make Sydney a more vibrant, interesting and exciting city – we shouldn't miss it.
– Alex Dowd

They locked us out and blamed us for violence in the community. They refused to accept the value of a 24-hour economy, then they opened the doors to allow us to survive out of pity, really. These privileges will be taken away very quickly, I believe, as big companies have too much power. As you can tell, I’m still scared by lockouts. Yes, these changes should be permanent.
– Maurice Terzini

Yes. It just shows that this red tape was never necessary in the first place! These changes should be made permanent and local councils/government should assist small businesses to thrive by reducing red tape and bureaucratic hurdles. Some of the fees paid to the council for “renewals” of documents are very high, and the length of time it takes to get certain approvals is very long.
– Ade Adeniyi

Yes. All these changes should be made permanent. Al fresco dining finally brought some much needed excitement to the city. Liquor laws here are really uptight compared to other countries, perhaps relaxing certain things on a trial period would be a good idea.
– José Alkon

Yes. Coming back to respect and support, I think we need as many options as possible to increase not only lost revenue after lockdowns and embargoes, but also to catch up for those that have deferred payment to ATO et cetera. I hope that people in a place of authority realise how essential hospitality is and assists us to survive.
– Josh Niland

These changes should be made permanent, the industry needs all the help it can get to get back on its feet. Covid’s going to be around for a while and al fresco dining also adds to the culture of a neighbourhood.
– Joy Ng

Yes, 100 per cent. There is no reason why this should not be permanent. It shows an opportunity for the food and wine industry to grow into. Not allowing this change seems to contradict the reason they were restricted in the first place. It seems to be more of an administrative issue as opposed to a practical and social issue.
– Aykut Sayan

Absolutely. It dilutes the term “nanny state”, mirroring the F&B scene in major cities of the world.
– Ibby Moubadder

The past 18 months have been harrowing. What's kept you going? Were there any specific moments of joy, humour or positivity with family, friends, staff or customers?

My family and mental health has kept me going. Most recently I made it a goal to lose the weight I gained during lockdown. It made me concentrate on spending more quality time with the kids and I loved cooking meals everyday at home for the family.
–Dan Hong

Humanity. This was a war between humanity and the virus. I kept going to lead by example for my family, friends, staff and everyone else. Humanity will prevail and we will come out of the other side stronger.
Junda Khoo

I realised how big of a chunk of my life is work and how much creativity I pour into being in the kitchen, with my team, creating new dishes. I was able to redirect some of my focus to other creative outlets during lockdown such as ceramics but ultimately, I missed the kitchen and the interaction with my team.
– Peter Gilmore

My kids, future projects, my office, my sanctuary. Rhythm breathing and running without a race to be anywhere. Hope and love from customers, friends, suppliers, producers, et cetera that have bared with us and taken just as much loss. Music, and dream of a never-ending dance floor!
– Maurice Terzini

Our customers! We’ve received over hundreds of messages of support from them, including offers of assistance. Someone offered to come and help us clean when we reopened! It’s been incredible to read all those messages. It really made me happy seeing how much people in the community actually cared. Our staff are a close knit bunch, so we talked all the time during lockdown and kept motivating each other.
– Ade Adeniyi

Customers walking in and buzzing on what we have created is what keeps us going. Wanting to know and be part of our story is beautiful. They understand that a restaurant is more than just food, it's an experience.
– José Alkon

The hope of returning to a certain normality in life definitely was the biggest thing that kept me going. (That pub beer!) Jokes aside, our industry is such a fast-paced one, which almost made the past few months a much-needed time for everyone to stop and take a break. One of the most special moments was whenever customers came back to say thank you and tell us how our dinner boxes have made their day. It meant a lot because it made me feel proud of what we achieved in such limited circumstances.
– Dorothy Lee

To paraphrase Dickens, it’s been the best of times and the worst of times. We have such a great team and everyone has rallied. We have been in it together, so of course there has been some laughs and actually some great ideas along the way. The greatest joy was being able to spend more time with [my wife] Julie and the kids. If I had to look at it all through a positive lens that has been the best gift.
– Josh Niland

When you find something which you love to do every day, you will persevere through any difficult conditions. I think we need to ask ourselves – why do we do what we do? The love and passion for the industry has to be the driving force.
– Aykut Sayan

I'm blessed to have talented and motivated people around me. They have been my driving force. During lockdown, we kept it fun, a drink over zoom or an online game.
– Ibby Moubadder

Friends and customers of Sang. There was one very, very, very, busy evening (towards the start of this lockdown) where we misjudged our intake of orders. Due to this mistake, we kept some customers waiting for almost two hours. Yes, two hours! I know how I would have reacted if I were in their position. We wanted to give up and cry, but most guests sympathised with our mistake and we received many words of kindness. However, it’s still an evening we wouldn't mind forgetting.
– Kenny Son

Spending valuable time with my six-year-old son and getting back to nature through bushwalking and kayaking.
– Lennox Hastie

My therapist.
–Anton Forte

When this year’s lockdown occurred, I initially felt extremely flat as I had only just launched my new place, Lucky Kwong, five weeks before. I was on such a high, I loved my new eatery, I was elated with the way Lucky Kwong had been received by the public, and my staff and I were just beginning to find our groove … but then all of a sudden, bang, we had to close! Fortunately, this sense of negativity was short-lived. Like last year, what has kept me going through this lockdown, is being able to have regular and strong connection to community. I feel that the best way we can take care of our mental health is by being connected to the community, which in turn leads to “mental wealth”. The focus on I immediately shifts to a focus on we. 

I began volunteering at Addi Road Community Organisation in Marrickville, at its Food Relief Hub which was set up in response to the beginning of the pandemic last year. It flicked a switch for me. Suddenly I felt a part of the greater whole again, rather than isolated. It allowed me to have regular connection with big-hearted people, led by trailblazer CEO Rosanna Barbero and Addi Rd Ambassador, Craig Foster AO. Together with many local volunteers, we pack food hampers for an increasing number of people who suffer from food insecurity and draw upon support from our industry contacts and individual networks. 

Addi Road allowed me to feel connected with two of my great passions, food and community. Although I wasn’t at LK harvesting, cooking and serving food, I was still able to get right to the core of my cooking practice, which is all about true nourishment – using food as a way of connecting with people and enhancing their life, using food as a channel for love, care and collaboration. During this time Addi Road’s trailblazing CEO Rosanna Barbero applied for a City of Sydney Covid-19 Emergency Community Grant which allowed me to curate special food hampers for more than 100 Asian families in need, including people from Greater Sydney’s Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean and Thai communities. This was such a highlight for me because in choosing highly specific pantry items for each of these four cultures; through food, we were able to say, “We understand you, we see you, we care about you.” As my Mum has always taught me, food connects people, food makes people happy.

Who in the industry has inspired you these past 18 months, with their positivity, creativity, resilience or anything else?

The airfryer. That was a huge discovery for me.
–Dan Hong

Jacqui Challinor [head chef at Nomad].
– Lennox Hastie

I want to give a big shout out to Ozharvest. It has given so much support to the whole industry during Covid, as well as being able to give back to those in need. It’s helped out a lot of different restaurants and individual chefs with it Harvest Bites takeaway. It's such an inspiring gesture to me because it created hope and positivity during lockdowns.
– Dorothy Lee

Neil Perry has done a brilliant job of working with charity and looking after the industry. Also, having the positivity of opening a restaurant in the middle of this period is inspiring and brave. I'm really looking forward to seeing him and his team in action at Margaret.
– Peter Gilmore

It’s great to see businesses like Burrow Bar/Cash Only really working to give back to the industry at a grassroots level. Seeing seasoned chefs like Neil Perry on the tools, getting their hands dirty and pumping up their businesses is super inspiring to see. The support, dedication and patience of our own teams has been a constant source of inspiration, too.
– Alex Dowd

The venues that have put the needs of hospitality workers and their community first have been inspirational. It’s beautiful to see hospitality looking after their own.
– José Alkon

I can think of many names and faces, but one that tops the list would be Yvonne C Lam, digital editor of Gourmet Traveller. She’s a brave and smart individual who told stories (and continues to deliver) that many people in and around the industry genuinely felt and cared for. Nice one Yvonne.
– Kenny Son

Pasan Wijesena, owner of Earl’s Juke Joint and Jacoby’s Tiki Bar. I always reached out and he was always there to listen, provide advice and support.
– Ade Adeniyi

The media. They really gave a helping hand – they were kind, generous and truly did their best to assist every small business in any way they could. They were the backbone of the industry in these testing times.
– Aykut Sayan

Everyone in Melbourne. I mean how have they gotten through this? It's been brutal for Melbourne and all of the operators there are incredible.
– Josh Niland

Ben Shewry [owner of Melbourne restaurant Attica]. NEVER GIVE UP.
– Maurice Terzini

Additional resporting by Sarah Norris, Che-Marie Trigg and Emma Joyce.